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Geneva is small, French-speaking, and one of the most expensive cities in Europe — which is exactly why the airfare is the part worth getting cheap; everything after landing adds up fast. The lakeside dish to order is filets de perches: small perch fillets from Lake Geneva, lightly fried and served with tartare sauce and a pile of fries. Skip the watch windows on Rue du Rhône. For the real Geneva, go to the Bains des Pâquis, a public bathing pier where locals swim straight off the dock all summer and pack in for cheap fondue and a sauna in winter — no pretense, a few francs. The 140-metre Jet d'Eau out on the water began in the 1880s as a pressure-release valve and was simply never turned off. Come June to August for warm days and lake swimming; winter is grey and cold, worth it mainly as a base for Alpine skiing.
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