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Your complete Sicily guide for 2026 — Valley of the Temples, Palatine Chapel and Monreale’s Arab-Norman mosaics, Val di Noto baroque, live Etna eruption status, Albero Falcone in Palermo, new Michelin 2-star I Tenerumi on Vulcano, Taormina off-season, and honest advice on when to visit and what to skip.